“Chinese” and “Bistro” in the same phrase? It seems like an odd pairing, but eaters stepping into the stylish spaces of P. F. Chang’s locations may have a new appreciation of the possibilities. The nationwide chain, which features both traditional and innovative Chinese tastes cooked to order in an exhibition kitchen, has recently opened a locale in Valley Square Shopping Center in Warrington.

      To really heighten the entertainment side of the dining experience, try the location at The Tropicana in Atlantic City. Here, an outstanding dinner can be combined with a stroll along the cobbled streets of The Quarter for a guaranteed return on your money in one of the many shops.       

       We entered P.F. Chang’s from the courtyard in The Quarter. It appeared to be primarily a cocktail lounge, but then, we were led down stairs into a stylish dining space at street level--a high-energy, open working kitchen, where chefs busily created theater and dinner with their Mongolian-style woks, banked one wall. Circles of light overhead softly illuminated the scenes of China that framed the kitchen area.

        The space was not the least bit pretentious, but, rather, warm and welcoming, on the part of both the setting and the staff. Our generously sized group was seated quickly and, in short order, had drink menus in hand. Choices ranged from white tangerine tea to sake and wines, to exotics such as my choice of a Ming Sling ($9): Tanqueray, Cherry Heering, Cointreau, Strega, and pineapple juice. It was one tasty drink.

         Yunnan was the seasonal focus of the menu, drawing on the cuisine of China’s most southwestern province, which has the most diverse ethnicity of the country. As a result, the food incorporated ingredients such as ham and cheese and dairy products- items not usually found on most Chinese menus. Our group gravitated toward menu choices offered year ‘round…starting with appetizers of Chang’s lettuce-wrapped chicken ($8), seared Ahi tuna ($8), salt and pepper calamari ($7), and Northern-style spareribs ($8)…each and every one a winner.

          Main-course selections ($10.50-$20) were both familiar (sweet and sour pork, mu shu pork, kung pao scallops) and intriguing (orange-peel shrimp, wok-seared lamb, ground chicken and eggplant). A marinated sea bass, broiled and served with a sweet ginger-soy sauce was stellar, as was the Chengdu Spiced Lamb, caramelized and tossed with cumin and mint.

           The meal was a festival of flavors, from the mouth-watering wok-charred beef to the spicy kung pao chicken. The custom-made sauces dazzled but didn’t drench. Portions were generous.

          We left enough room to try the Banana Spring Rolls ($6.50), the Great Wall of Chocolate ($8) and the Lucky Eight ($8). Forget fortune cookies and sherbet. Here crispy spring rolls with coconut-pineapple ice cream, drizzled with caramel and vanilla sauces; six layers of chocolate cake frosted with semi-sweet chocolate chips and drizzled with raspberry sauce, and crispy chocolate-cream filled sticks served with a warm caramel-peanut butter dipping sauce and bits of toffee brittle. Now that was good fortune.

           No matter what the casino tables or slots held for us ahead, we all walked out knowing that we had hit the jackpot on dinner.