Marvelous on the Main Line

 

By Mitch Davis

Philly EDGE Correspondent

 

Plate

105 Coulter Ave.,

Suburban Square, Ardmore

610.642.5900

www.PlateRestaurant.com

 

Hours: Lunch and dinner daily; a la carte Sunday brunch 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.

 

Setting: Situated on the edge of Suburban Square, it’s only a few steps from the area’s first, and still handsome, shopping mall. Once the home of La Parisienne bistro, which I dearly miss, this space, simply named “Plate,” is still attractive.

 The best room to be in at Plate, any time, hands down, is the gorgeous circular bar/lounge, especially now with its large double windows thrown wide open. I was half sorry that there was no wait for a table on a recent Saturday evening (the Fourth of July weekend). I would otherwise have had a drink there and enjoyed the wait.

    But there is also some great outside dining – out front, and along one side, where we were promptly seated. This pleasant al fresco area, seating 60, with its faux marble tables and its faux Belgian block, fan-patterned terrace was delightful in the early evening light.

 

Food: Plate can serve its contemporary American comfort food to as many as 190 patrons. Signature dishes include crispy calamari, slow-smoked beef brisket and the “Painter’s Palette” of homemade assorted ice cream mini-cones served with chocolate sauce and sprinkles. The kitchen prides itself on the “stone-fired” oven it uses to make personal pizzas, and some of the meat and fish entrées. It also boasts Angela Tustin, a first-rate pasty chef, of some renown.

 

Taste: My dining companion and I went for the stone-fired Top Neck Clams with garlic, shallots, herbs and olive oil, which was as appetizing as an appetizer should be – I could have eaten twice as many as the five served. 

    For the main course, she had the stone-fired Planked Salmon – unreasonably flaky good with a crispy herb crust, and veggies. I stayed ‘oceanside’ as well, and ordered the Crab Cake entrée. Great crabby taste, 50 percent crabmeat, 50 percent filler…good yes, outstanding no.

     If I return, I must try the Smoked Brisket in barbeque sauce, which comes with potato salad and coleslaw.

 

Service: A mostly pulchritudinous staff, dressed in all black ensembles of their own choosing. Our server Diana was especially attractive, with a great upbeat personality to match. Her face was constantly in motion, a virtual mirror of her emotions. Oh yeah… she took good care of us too.

 

Reservations: Accepted for six or more; except for Sunday brunch, when reservations are taken and indeed recommended.

 

Parking: Ample lot across the street. Metered parking until 6 p.m. on the street.

 

Cost: Plate’s pricing is MML (“ Moderate for the Main Line”). The baked Top Necks were $8.95, the Crab Cake entrée $19.95 and the Planked Salmon entrée $20.95. 

Desserts were $7.